The two tilt out tills will hold saws and brace drills and a few hand tools. Pictures of them as they get completed and put in.
This is one of many test fits required to get this sawbench joinery to fit properly. It's funny how rusty one gets from not doing it for awhile. But progress is being made. This is osage orange and it is really challenging to work with. All type of grain seem to be present and even when it looks straight, it isn't in another direction, so hand planing requires special equipment. What I have that works is a plain old paint scraper very well sharpened for this purpose.
Woke up one morning with this stuck in my head, so I edited my drawings a bit and printed out a new part. I'm sharing the Sketchup 15 file here for you to down load it for yourself. There are several layers and some are not visible, so check the controls. I've set up views or scenes to quickly get to a printable part view and if dimension layer is on, it will be dimensioned for you. Any questions, contact me.
Note that the handle will be locked in central position when stacked, no matter its orientation.
Yesterday I started finding suitable boards and began the rough milling for the four feet and eight legs. The first picture shows my "jointer" process which I find much faster and more accurate in this application than a long bed jointer. The second picture shows the astonishing beauty and quality of osage orange (hedge) in old growth trunks. Picture three is the setup I used to punch the 4 1/2" deep through mortises. The machine is my home built router mill. I flipped the piece over and came in from the bottom edge and was pleasantly surprised how little lip (almost undetectable to 1/64") in the intersection, thanks to the accuracy off the mill. I was glad to have the big mortise chisels to work the cleanup. And finally, that moment when matching mortises receive their tenons like hydraulic pistons and the surfaces are microscopically close to flush with each other!
Here’s what I’ve decided upon until the next great idea comes along. I’m pretty firm that way. Tills are still dust tight when closed, removable by lifting out, Interchangeable, tip out without hinges and will stay put in either position unless there’s a “nu-kleer” splosion somewhere close. Done in 1” hedge with 2” tops. Tail orientation changed for vertical stress…these are gonna be heavy. Notice the heights and how they stack.
This is a Monadnock pattern cuckoo clock from Klockit. I like the design because it is reminiscent of the traditional chalet so often seen in vintage cuckoo clocks The delicate scroll work around it enhances the design and made it very rewarding to do the scroll saw work. It is made from walnut grown near my home town which contributes to the special-ness of the gift. It is very three dimensional. While the clock is a quartz regulated electronic movement, the cuckoo sound is reproduced from a recording of the real cuckoo bird in the wild. I'm sure that this will be treasured for many generations, even if the clock fails! And it's clear that granddaughter got the "good looking" genes from someone else!
This is a time of year to appreciate and evaluate as well as celebrate. May you have wisdom, discernment and a productive year ahead!
(A picture is worth a thousand words, but which one?)
Merry Christmas, and Happy New Year.
It has been awhile since I posted anything here. It has been awhile since I've been in the shop to do anything significant. This project came about because it's getting close to Christmas and my wife's Indian doll collection was in disarray. A display case seemed the logical conclusion. Made from recycled glass and a quartersawn red oak base, I used a magical glass adhesive called Nano470. Put a thin bead on the edge of the glass and "cure" it for about three minutes with a standard fluorescent light. The joint becomes stronger than the glass itself.
Here is the finished and pretty precise octagon. Indexed tapers can be cut on this also by adjusting the ends of the miter runner underneath the jig. The fence is snugged up to the jig to add support because at the moment the runner is UHMD which is not stiff enough in this length to be a steady guide. It will be replaced by a metal one as soon as I can find the metal. You can't see it in the picture, and I didn't draw it in the downloadable SketchUp file below, but there are two indexing "wheels" on this end of the jig that are drilled for octagons and hexagons...just in case. So a great variety of profiles can be cut.
Here is the new combination jig about to make an octagonal turning blank. I do a lot of handles that start as an octagon and then get mounted on the lathe to turn the round parts. I started out making these blanks on the lathe with a router attached to the tool post...it took about 3 hours to make a good one. Now, on the saw, it takes about three minutes.
I made my own centers. The far end is a 3" x 1/4" dowel, sharpened on one end and slightly rounded on the other. I use the rounded end because I locate the centers I want on the log with a 1/4" hole about 1/2" deep. I cross drilled the rod in the center for a 1/8" roll pin which rides against a washer to protect the wood jig under pressure. The close end is a 5/8" metal rod about 6" long with a 1/8" roll pin. I drilled a 1/4" hole about 1" deep for another 1/4" metal rod with a blunt end center and glued it in. Then I ground four 30° slots using a 1/2" wheel leaving four spurs between them.
Dan is an experienced woodworker who is anxious to make an heirloom of the future for you.