Just rip a 1" stick and cut 1 1/2 inches off at 45 degrees. Drill and countersink for bolts or nuts pressed in. These are lined up for a coat of finish. Oh, plan to use a washer under the wood head. Works better.
This jig was inspired by a very arrogant article in FWW. I find it REALLY distasteful to claim "the ultimate jig" because there is ALWAYS some way to make it more applicable to a given situation. So combining several jigs, my favorite way to save space, I made this setup. The first three attachments behind the basic unit are for parallel to edge routing on straight or curved pieces. The next pair are simple flats that allow the router to flush trim to a surface. The next attachment is a setup to cut dowels. I'm disappointed in my ability to make smooth dowels from any router setup including this one. The last four are spare parts for future applications, think perhaps router sled for flattening. The router slides smoothly on the rods if you tighten it just right. Note that I had to cut my turnbuckles for clearance. :(
This is the bottom showing how things get held together. I used square tubes on diagonal because they are much stronger than the same size round stock.
Using a variable speed lathe, in this case my faithful Super Shop, I set up a dowel cutting arrangement using the various custom parts of the lathe. This is my only setup that has produced really smooth dowels from oak, though the hand method came quite close. (see previous post)
The tail stock was made to match the head stock...same threads, R8 collet taper.
Closeup of the business end. The bearing has a bronze bushing pushed into it (press fit) and the bushing is drilled and tapped for both three and four bolt pattern. The bolts are flathead 1/4-20 locked in position with a nut. These flat heads ride on the square blank to support the spinning wood. The three jaw chuck is the outfeed "bushing": that supports the round, freshly cut dowel.
The tail stock holding the three jaw chuck is hollow (for a draw bar that holds R8 collets) and it keeps the dowel from whipping. It is spinning at about 1200 RPM.
This is the only arrangement I have ever seen that can cut any size dowel by simply making some adjustments...no extra bushings required.
I started these dowel cutting blocks as a set probably 30 years ago and never finished the set. Am contemplating finishing that as I research different dowel making methods. This is making a reasonably smooth 1/2" dowel out of a failed 3/4" dowel effort using another method.
One nice feature of this method is I can cut clear to the end.
This is my version of a loose tenon mortising jig. It is a combination of several single purpose jigs and takes advantage of the router guide micro positioning when needed. I didn't get a good picture of how the edge guide is captive in the T slot at the back.
Vertical or horizontal pieces. Vertical piece length limit is overcome by repositioning the jig to be horizontal. The 45" slot is engaged by the lip on the edge of the "fence" to locate a 45" angle quickly and accurately.
Notice that the slotted fence fixture (seen everywhere in my shop) is the basis for the lateral action. Setup is centerline driven, so those stop blocks are usually equidistant from the centerline, each on their own ruler.
A unique feature of this jig is the tilting table that uses no hinges. The square plywood panels at the ends form a trunion action that lets the pivot point be precisely at the intersection of the bottom plane of the router and the face of the slotted table. This is handy for setting up compound angles.
Back side view to show how it is clamped to the bench through the dog holes and the T slot at the back where the edge guide is captured.
This is the connection to the fence. It happens to be a u bracket mount for adjustable case feet. The foot thread was perfect for the fence bolt. The other end already had a concentric hole so I used it to mount the threaded rod.
The half nut capture block is the secret to fast setting and precise positioning. Notice the square block at the end. It is marked 0, 1/64, 1/32, 3/64 because the rod is 3/8 - 16. With the fence barely touching the (stationary) saw blade and the square block at "zero up", the capture block is secured to the fence rail with the lower wing nut. Then the fence is ready to be precisely positioned at the desired measurement, time after time.
The split nut is half of a threaded coupling super glued into the shaped block. The spring pushes the nut off the bar with 3 half twists of the wing nut allowing the fence to move about 30:" because the rod is 36". A longer rod could be used. The cursor on the fence gets me close and the tightened half nut puts the fence precisely. Micro adjustments can then be made if needed by twisting the square on the end of the rod.
Dan is an experienced woodworker who is anxious to make an heirloom of the future for you.